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When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.